Japanese born designer Rei Tanaka was exposed to various focused art forms at a young age from his grandmother, who herself was an experienced tailor. After spending his adolescence in the United States, his lifelong commitment to high quality craftsmanship took him to the London University of the Arts to major in pattern design based on British tailoring; as well as furthering his study in Florence, Italy apprenticing under a traditional hand sewn bespoke tailor.
Rei's extensive experience led to the development of the label 'ierib'. Celebrating traditional Japanese craft, infused with the sensibilities learned from his studies, the label is an unquestionably pure example of slow, sustainable, artisan craft that we like to curate here at AZUL.
Approaching his design with a full circle philosophy; Rei hunts not only for sport, but utilizes leftover hides in production, and the meat for hot-pot. He oversees every aspect of production from the ground up; pattern-making, dyeing, hardware finishing and tailoring which are all done in house in Kyoto, Japan. This obsession to detail results in an approach where material, process, and time hold equal importance. Finished pieces lives are not done when they leave the atelier, but grow and develop over time; becoming increasingly unique to the owner.
The starting selection at AZUL showcases some of ierib's more unique practices combined with the identity of our store by way of functional pieces that can easily integrate into daily lives:
A run of 'BARK' bags, an iconic shape for the label, and a subtle nod to one of contemporary fashions most sought after and coveted handbags, done in the full range of sizes and showcasing varying techniques.
BARK30 SKELETON:
Horse hide body with an inset rib-cage sign made from translucent horse-leather. This see through effect is achieved through a process unlike traditional tanning, which the hide is stripped, bleached and the collagen treated with a swelling agent and a solution which forces the fibers to lock in a sheer light transmitting structure.
BARK35 'SAKABUKURO':
A truly unique fabric; referring to vintage cotton sacks used in traditional sake making that are used to filter the moromi (rice mash). The rich brown color is derived from persimmon tannin which is painted on the surface of the bag and is highly effective at improving sake clarity. Each sack shows varying signs of wear including hand-done repairs.
BARK35 USMC:
Repurposed United States Marine Corps duffle bags. These standard issue bags were created to endure regular, rugged use in harsh conditions; given a new life in items that are equally intended to endure heavy future use. Classification stamps, original hardware, and even name-tags are all left visible as evidence of these items former life. A nod to Rei's time spent in the United States during his teenage years, but also well suited for the aesthetic of the AZUL New York showroom.
BARK40 (CULATTA):
"Culatta" refers to the hind quarter section of a horse hide; the "ass" (in so little words). Characterized by its incredibly texture rich appearance, and often used by avant-garde designers for small leather accessories; the very nature of procurement lends itself to goods that are not mass produced. Its high oil content aids in developing an incredibly rich patina through regular use.
GYM BAG (OILED HORSE):
An example of Rei's technical skills when it comes to pattern making. This highly intricate, luxurious edition of a "gym bag" serves its owner with generous multi-compartment storage, and secured zippered pockets. Suitable for daily use or travel, the shoulder strap can be split in two for use as a backpack.
TRACKER JACKET (TYPE2) 'SAKABUKURO':
The persimmon dyed fabric seen again used in the larger application of a lightweight jacket. Refined down to the very last detail and impeccably tailored. Its simplicity and elegance is complimented by uneven coloration and repair marks from the fabrics previous life.
Discover the new delivery online or book a private shopping appointment in our New York City showroom below:
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